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Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Luna loves the sea and the gifts she finds every day on the shore. But one day a wave sends her life adrift, in this touching, funny novel about grief, love, and friendship Thirteen-year-old Luna lives in a small town on the coast of Tuscany. She is smart and funny. And she is albino. When her brother Luca drowns in a surfing accident, Luna's mother retreats into herself. At school, stricken by her loss yet determined to carry on, Luna makes a new friend and ally, the eccentric Zot, a boy from Chernobyl. Luna believes that Luca still speaks to her through a whale bone washed up on the shore. In truth, this is part of a ruse that has been orchestrated by Sandro, Luca's former teacher, as a misguided way to assuage the guilt he carries with him. Luna's fantasies clash with the lies—even the well-intentioned ones—of the adult world in this touching, droll novel by the author of Live Bait (Other Press, 2014). Luna is an unforgettable character—vivid, stubborn, highly imaginative, determined to become her own person—who will appeal to readers of all ages.
Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Wave breaking is a commonly occurring phenomena associated with wave motion in fluids, often inducing significant effects which are of fundamental and technological importance, A familiar illustration is provided with white-capping and microbreaking of the wind-driven ocean sUrface waves, which is believed to play an important part in the transfers of momentum, mass and heat across the air-sea interface, as well as in the production of underwater ambient noise and augmented microwave backscatter. The enhanced hydrodynamic forces associated with the breaking of the more energetic ocean wave components constitute a significant challenge in ocean engineering, coastal engineering and naval architecture. Other less conspicuous but equally important manifestations are the breaking of internal waves and the fila mentation of vorticity interfaces. Despite recent theoretical and observational progress towards a more complete understanding of wave breaking, mathematical descriptions of its onset and consequences are presently lacking. The aim of this Symposium was to bring together theoretical and observational expertise, with the goal of determining the current state of knowledge of wave breaking and providing a stimulus to future research. The Symposium focused on water waves of all scales from capillary waves to ocean swell, but also considered internal waves and the filamentation of vorticity interfaces. Specific topics included were: Fundamental theoretical studies; wave instabilities; routes to breaking. Models of wave breaking. Field observations, including statistical information. Laboratory studies. Shoaling waves, breaking waves on currents, breaking induced by the motion of a ship.
Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.
Information Technology: The Breaking Wave is intended for the Introductory Computing course at community colleges, four year colleges, universities, and proprietary institutions. The market for shorter concepts books, like Curtin, is growing as faculty struggle to spend more time on applications without increased contact hours.
In 1960, Dr. George Deacon ofthe National Institute ofOceanography in England organized a meeting in Easton, Maryland that summarized the state of our understanding at that time of ocean wave statistics and dynamics. It was a pivotal occasion: spectral techniques for wave measurement were beginning to be used, wave-wave interactions hadjust been discovered, and simple models for the growth of waves by wind were being developed. The meeting laid the foundation for much work that was to follow, but one could hardly have imagined the extent to which new techniques of measurement, particularly by remote sensing, new methods of calculation and computation, and new theoretical and laboratory results would, in the following twenty years, build on this base. When Gaspar Valenzuela of the V. S. Naval Research Laboratory perceived that the time was right for a second such meeting, it was natural that Sir George Deacon would be invited to serve as honorary chairman for the meeting, and the entire waves community was delighted at his acceptance. The present volume contains reviewed and edited papers given at this second meeting, held this time in Miami, Florida, May 13-20, 1981, with the generous support of the Office of Naval Research, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.