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After the extravagant forms of Art Nouveau, the Art Deco movement represented a return to simplicity and severity. As this book richly demonstrates, in that period jewelry found a virtually unlimited source of renewal. Designers drew inspiration from the entire vivid spectrum of the plastic arts: riotous colors in explosive combinations from the Ballets Russes and the Fauves, geometric shapes from Cubism and Suprematism, the contrast of black and white from Neo-Plasticism, and a fascination with the mechanical world from Futurism. Nor were its exponents confined to the modern European world: an Egyptian vogue was prompted by the 1922 discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun, while other themes were borrowed from the Far East, Persia, and Africa. Art Deco Jewelry displays through sumptuous illustrations, coupled with a lucid and informative text, the creations of the haute joaillerie (jewelers such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels) and of the avant-garde designers -- Jean Fouquet, Raymond Templier, Gerard Sandoz, Jean Durand, and Paul Brandt -- to whom we owe some of the most daring and brilliant jewels of the period. There is also an exquisite range of accessories: dainty vanity cases fashioned with the maximum of detail in the minimum of space, boxes and cigarette cases, and a spectacular array of clocks. With the addition of succinct biographies of the most innovative and influential jewelers of the day, a select bibliography, and a glossary, this book serves as an essential reference for anyone interested in the period or in superb examples of the jeweler's art.
C’est dans le domaine de la joaillerie que l’Art Nouveau a trouvé son expression la plus vive. A la fin du XIXe siècle, un regain d’intérêt pour les arts décoratifs attira sur les bijoux l’attention d’artistes séduits par leurs multiples possibilités esthétiques. La nature extrêmement décorative et souvent opulente du style Art Nouveau se prêtait en effet magnifiquement à la parure de la beauté féminine. Les artistes et orfèvres qui créèrent les bijoux Art Nouveau avaient été formés aux méthodes du XIXe siècle et leur parfaite maîtrise technique leur permit d’expérimenter de nouveaux matériaux tout en laissant libre cours à leur imagination. Ce mélange inédit de savoir-faire technique et d’inspiration Art Nouveau produisit quelques-uns des bijoux les plus inventifs de ce siècle. Dans cet ouvrage somptueusement illustré, Vivienne Becker présente un vaste panorama international des bijoux Art Nouveau. Elle étudie les principaux joailliers français, dont René Lalique fut le plus célèbre, pour ensuite montrer comment ce style s’étendit à travers toute l’Europe et les Etats-Unis. C’est un ouvrage de référence complet, rigoureux et très agréable à consulter, s’adressant aussi bien aux collectionneurs qu’à tous les amateurs de bijoux.
ART DECO. An authoritative, comprehensive, and beautifully illustrated selection of jewelry that will appeal to specialists and general readers alike; published with the Musee des Arts Decoratifs.
A geometric formal idiom reminiscent of Cubism and the aesthetic of the machine, colored plastic and chrome are synonymous with art deco costume jewelry, which was widespread throughout the 1920s and '30s Europe. Hitherto classified by specialists in the field as 'French Jewelry', these objects were in fact created in the Chain and Jewelry factory founded in 1873 by Jakob Bengel in Idar-Oberstein. The Bengel production from 1928 until 1936 is distinguished by extraordinary innovation and distinctive individuality surpassing anything comparable from other contemporaneous makers. Jakob Bengel, who was Ernst Hartenberger's son-in-law, also possesses the business acumen to market and distribute his wares worldwide. More than 250 pieces of jewelry are shown and described in the present book. Moreover, this monograph is the first in-depth study of the subject, drawing extensively on the Bengel pattern books from 1924 to 1936. The more than 20,000 drawings in color reproduced in them are invaluable sources for understanding designers and design practice.
Spectacularly beautiful, this authoritative book presents jewelry designs of this century. With almost two hundred full-color photographs specially commissioned for this book and archival pictures of pieces that have disappeared into private collections, the volume features the finest artworks in precious metals and jewels from collections around the world, including creations by Lalique, Cartier, Boucheron, Bulgari, Tiffany, and David Webb. The fascinating text surveys the glittering world of gems with an illustrated introductory essay investigating the development of jewelry design at the end of the 1800s, and the shift from Victorian and Art Nouveau works to pieces stamped with the personality and vision of a single designer. The next chapter thoroughly examines the successive revolutions in style of the twentieth century. The balance of the book is a cornucopia of photographs portraying pieces from the beginning of the century through the 1960s: the grand era of commissions and patrons. Here you will find the Duchess of Windsor's famous necklace of diamonds and rubies as well as a fabulous pin in the shape of a World War II tank, and a veritable menagerie of diamond-studded elephants, enameled tigers, and jade dragons. This thorough history is a dazzling jewelbox of a book.