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The book for every taste-maker and menswear acolyte - a mash-up of satirical free verse, photos and spot-on advice for creating your own totally crispy style. In your hands is an Amazonian blowgun full of deadly knowledge darts ready to be delivered straight to your cranium. You're about to begin a journey that will end in only one way - with you standing naked in an abandoned ravine watching as your old wardrobe slowly burns. Let this be your illustrated Iliad for dressing better.
An insight into the world of high-grade men s clothing"
This is the true-life story of a boy who quit school to become an apprentice on Savile Row, home to London's most venerable tailors, and wound up owning his own shop on the world-famous 'Golden Mile', where he hand-cuts exquisite suits for a clientele including royalty, politicians, literati, business tycoons, and media stars. On a bright, bitterly cold and snowy morning in January 1982, 17-year-old Richard Anderson made his way with his father to an interview at Savile Row's illustrious Henry Huntsman & Sons. They were late, but Richard got the job, with its meagre salary of only £2,000 a year, and his life was changed forever. Huntsman was arguably the world's most prestigious tailoring house, and Richard's apprenticeship proved a humbling ordeal overseen by three titans of the trade: the formidably debonair Colin Hammick, fellow chain-smoker and grumpy eccentric Brian Hall, and Dick Lakey, the company's heroically overworked 'leg man'. Training under these men in the arcane art of making trousers and coats that could cost as much as £10,000 was an inspiring but also gruelling game, yet 'Young Richard' persisted for 17 more years of rigorous practice in perfectionism and prestige - to become, at 34, the youngest head cutter in Huntsman's 150-year history. Witty and told with great candour, Bespoke is a fascinating behind-the-scenes exposé of life on Savile Row from one of the world's most celebrated and successful tailors.
Whether it's a military inspired trench coat or a Savile Row tailored suit, menswear design increasingly demands originality, innovation and above all, choice. Menswear, 2nd edition explores the evolution of menswear styles, from the origins of tailoring right through to modern sportswear – showing how historical and social influences continue to endure and influence the menswear collections of today. Interviews offer insight from a range of practitioners, including designer Lou Dalton, fashion entrepreneur Alan Maleh and tailor Ray Stowers. There's also practical advice on research for design innovation, street style, trends and forecasting and collection development. With a wealth of stunning new images and contemporary examples, new to this edition are end-of-chapter exercises to encourage design work, such as Design for Sportswear Fabrication and Tailoring for Menswear. Featured topics Historical Research for Design Innovation Counterculture Dressing Design Process Street Style Trends and Forecasting Tailoring for Menswear Collection Development Drawing for Men CAD for Menswear Menswear Portfolios Featured interviewees Lou Dalton Guy Hill and Kirsty McDougall, Dashing Tweeds Alan Maleh, Man of the World Ray Stowers, Stowers Bespoke Seung Won Hong, Fashion Illustrator Matthew Zorpas, The Gentleman Blogger
Despite increasing academic interest in both the study of masculinity and the history of consumption, there are still few published studies that bring together both concerns. By investigating the changing nature of the retailing of menswear, this book illuminates wider aspects of masculine identity as well as patterns of male consumption between the years 1880 and 1939. While previous historical studies of masculinity have focused overwhelmingly on the moral, spiritual and physical characteristics associated with notions of 'manliness', this book considers the relationship between men and activities which were widely considered to be at least potentially 'unmanly' - selling, as well as buying clothes - thus shedding new light on men's lives and identities in this period.
Tailoring is the complete photo guide to sewing jackets and coats. Written by sewing professionals, this book teaches the trusted, proven methods for sewing tailored jackets with impeccable details and perfect fit. Written for the intermediate sewer who wants to move on to more challenging projects, this book ensures success with detailed, step-by-step instructions, more than 400 photos, in-depth discussions about products and how to use them. Tailoring offers guidance for every aspect of tailoring a jacket: fitting and pattern alteration, fabrics and tools, interfacings, interlinings, seams and finishes, hand stitches, collars, pressing, topstitching, shaping shoulders, setting in sleeves, sewing pockets, vents, and making perfect buttonholes.
Dressing the Man is the definitive guide to what men need to know in order to dress well and look stylish without becoming fashion victims. Alan Flusser's name is synonymous with taste and style. With his new book, he combines his encyclopedic knowledge of men's clothes with his signature wit and elegance to address the fundamental paradox of modern men's fashion: Why, after men today have spent more money on clothes than in any other period of history, are there fewer well-dressed men than at any time ever before? According to Flusser, dressing well is not all that difficult, the real challenge lies in being able to acquire the right personalized instruction. Dressing well pivots on two pillars -- proportion and color. Flusser believes that "Permanent Fashionability," both his promise and goal for the reader, starts by being accountable to a personal set of physical trademarks and not to any kind of random, seasonally served-up collection of fashion flashes. Unlike fashion, which is obliged to change each season, the face's shape, the neck's height, the shoulder's width, the arm's length, the torso's structure, and the foot's size remain fairly constant over time. Once a man learns how to adapt the fundamentals of permanent fashion to his physique and complexion, he's halfway home. Taking the reader through each major clothing classification step-by-step, this user-friendly guide helps you apply your own specifics to a series of dressing options, from business casual and formalwear to pattern-on-pattern coordination, or how to choose the most flattering clothing silhouette for your body type and shirt collar for your face. A man's physical traits represent his individual road map, and the quickest route toward forging an enduring style of dress is through exposure to the legendary practitioners of this rare masculine art. Flusser has assembled the largest andmost diverse collection of stylishly mantled men ever found in one book. Many never-before-seen vintage photographs from the era of Cary Grant, Tyrone Power, and Fred Astaire are employed to help illustrate the range and diversity of authentic men's fashion. Dressing the Man's sheer magnitude of options will enable the reader to expand both the grammar and verbiage of his permanent-fashion vocabulary. For those men hoping to find sartorial fulfillment somewhere down the road, tethering their journey to the mind-set of permanent fashion will deliver them earlier rather than later in life.
From choosing the right pair of eyeglasses to properly coordinating a shirt, tie, and pocket square, getting dressed is an art to be mastered. Yet, how many of us just throw on, well, whatever each morning? How many understand the subtleties of selecting the right pair of socks or the most compatible patterns of our various garments-much less the history, imperatives, and importance of our choices? In True Style, acclaimed fashion expert G. Bruce Boyer provides a crisp, indispensable primer for this daily ritual, cataloguing the essential elements of the male wardrobe and showing how best to employ them. In witty, stylish prose, Boyer breezes through classic items and traditions in menswear, detailing the evolution and best uses of fabrics like denim and linen, accoutrements like neckties and eyeglasses, and principles for combining patterns, colors, and textures. He enlightens readers about acceptable circumstances for donning a turtleneck, declaims the evils of wearing dress shoes without socks, and trumpets the virtues of sprezzatura, the artistry of concealing effort beneath a cloak of nonchalance. With a gentle yet firm approach to the rules of dressing and an incredible working knowledge of the different items, styles, and principles of menswear, Boyer provides essential wardrobe guidance for the discriminating gentleman, explaining what true style looks like-and why.
Men’s Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 introduces the reader to English tailoring and covers the drafting of patterns, cutting out in cloth, and the complete traditional construction techniques in sequence for the tailoring of a waistcoat, trousers and jacket. The book contains: step-by-step instructions, complete with illustrations, for students and costumiers who are new to the making of male tailored garments from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries; drafting blocks and construction techniques for the main three styles of nineteenth century male garments: frock coat, morning coat and dress coat; patterns, photographs and detailed measurements taken from a variety of male coats, jackets, waistcoats and trousers from c1830 - c1950 from museums and collections. From choosing the right cloth to preparing for the fitting process, this how-to guide will help readers create beautiful, historically accurate three-piece suits for events and performances.
Offers a perspective on the shifting and sometimes complex relationships that exist within the fascinating area of fashion. This book provides an introduction to the subject by considering a range of social and historical contexts that have served to define and redefine menswear through the ages.